Lip-turning machine.



J. F. GARTLAND.

LIP TURNING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 28, 1910.

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JOHN F. GARTEAND, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOB T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

Specification of Letters Patent.

LIP-TURNING MACHINE.

Patented Mar. 28, 1916.

Application filed July 28, 1910. Serial No. 574,238,

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JOHN F. GARTLAND, a citizen of the United States, residing at Rochester, in the county of Monroe and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Lip-Turn ing Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains, to make and use the same.

This invention relates to sole machines and more particularly to machines for setting the lip of a lipped insole, such machines being generally lgiown in the art as lip Certain kinds of insoles employed in the manufacture of boots and shoes are provided with a narrow flap of leather extending along the marginal portion of the insole which is formed by cutting into the body of the insole in a direction oblique to the body portion over the insole to such an extent that it is wholly prevented from turning back toward its original position under the naturaltendency of the fibers to spring back.- This is especially true in the case of what are known as Fake Gem or Mock Gem insoles, an example of which is illustrated in the United States patent to Moore No. 275,248, as in such soles the resilience of the reinforcing fabric at the inner side of the lip materially assists the natural tendencyof thelip to spring back. When the set of the lip is such that it is permitted to turn back toward its original position, it is liable to be lasted down during the lasting operation, thus preventing the. operator of the inseam sewing machine from reaching the shoulder and ultimately causing a badly insoled shoe.

l The present invention has for its object to produce a lip turning machine which will expeditiously set the lip, imparting thereto such an angular set relative to the surface of the sole that the tendency to turn back to its original position is overcome. Preferably the machine is arranged to act upon the lip in such a manner that the fibers of the leather of which the lip is composed, and more particularly at the angle between the lip and feather, will be pounded and compacted thereby materially assisting the retention of the angular position at which tin tools which act upon the lip from two differ ent directions, one acting in a plane inclined to the surface of the support of the sole and at the base of the lip where it joins the feather, and the other acting in a plane substantially perpendicular to the sole support and upon the body of the lip. which is set in this manner is much better than those previously made by the use of a single setting tool because the lip having been pounded and set at its base will resist a much greater strain than formerly before turning back against the upper during the sewing operation.

The present invention consists in a lip turning machine which will be hereinafter described and particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

The preferred form of the invention is shown in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a side elevation of the entire machine; Figs. 2 and 3 are a plan and front elevation, respectively, of the operating tools; Fig. a is a perspective showing the mode of operation of one of the setting tools on the lip; and Figs. 5 and 6 are portions of the margins of difierent insoles, the lips of which have been acted upon by the machine. Referring to the drawings of the framework of the machine, the rotating work support A, the bearing a therefor and the means for rotating the work support; the feed wheel B, the inclined shaft Z) on the upper end of which the feed wheel is mounted, the bearing '7) therefor and the means for A lip rotating the feed wheel; the lever C for supporting the presser foot, the shaft c'u-pon which the lever is mounted and the eccentric b on the shaft 0 for actuating said lever; the slide D, the guide d therefor-and means for actuating the slide; the lip turning tool E and the manner in which it is mounted; the inclined reciprocating lip setting tool F and the lip slitting tool f both mounted at the end of the slide D; and the presser foot G, all may be and preferably are, in their construction, function and mode of operation, the same as shown and described in the United States Letters Patent to J. B. Hadaway, Nos. 635,772, Oct. 31, V

1899, and 638,010, Nov. 28, .1899, for lip turning machines.

The lip retaining tool H of the former of the two patents to Hadaway above referred to is preferably omitted in the present machine and in its place there is provided a re ciprocating hammer H arranged above the insole in position to operate upon the body of the lip. To accommodate this hammer the support for the bearing 9 for the shank or stem 9 of the presser foot G is formed with an additional bearing h for the shank or stemh of the hammer H. This double bearing is secured, in the same manner that the single bearing formerly was, to the forwardly extending arm 9 of the three-armed lever C. As in said prior patents, the presser foot G is arranged to yield vertically in its bearing g to accommodate inequalities in the thickness of soles and for different thickness of soles. For this purpose the presser foot is acted upon at its upper end by a spring 9 which has a slot 9 engaging a I head 9 formed upon a screw g which is threaded into the upper end of the stem 9. At its opposite end the spring 9 is secured by a screw 9 to a boss 9 formed on the three-armed lever C. The hammer H also is arranged to yield vertically in its hearing by being mounted therein similarly to the mounting of presser foot G in its hearing. The stem it has threaded into its upper end a screw it, the head h of which is engaged by the slotted end of a spring h which may conveniently be formed as a branch of the spring g. The stems of the presser foot and hammer are prevented from rotating in their bearings by pins or lugs g and 71k, respectively, which engage in suitable vertical slots formed in the bearings. With this construction as the sole is fed through the machine in the manner described in said patents to J. B. Hadaway hereinbefore referred to, the lip turning tool E will first turn the lip substantially perpendicular to the feather. The portion of the lip turned up will then be acted upon by the lip slitting tool 7 and by the lip setting tool F the latter of which will compact and pound the fibers of the base of the lip, and thereafter by the bearing 72,.

-the-lip to lay it over the face of the sole.

In some classes of insoles, ,for instance, what is known as the Goodyearwelt in; sole, (see Fig. 5), toobtain the best results it is desirable that the body of the lip be laid down close to the between substance, while in other classes of insoles, for instance, the Fake gem, (see Fig. 6), it is not necessary to lay the lip so close to the face of the insole. A variation in the angle at which the lip is turned may be obtained by varying the force of blow imparted to the bodyof the lip by the hammer H. Such a variation in the force of the blow is secured by varying the tension of the spring h by which. the hammer is held yieldinglyin its This may readily be accomplished by lifting the spring oif of the screw it and then adjusting the height of the.

screw.

It is believed that the entire operation of the machine will be obvious from the. description already given when taken in connection with the patents to J. H. Hadaway hereinbefore referred to. The tools all being operated from the same eccentric, they necessarily act simultaneously after each feed movement and the presser foot G is withdrawn from the work at the time when the tools are withdrawn therefrom, that'is, between the operations of the sole feeding means. The arrangement of the presser foot G and hammer H is such that the presser footis in engagement with the work to hold it from movement during the operation. of the hammer.

It should be understood thatthe conjoint use of all of the tools herein described for operating upon the sole is not essential to a proper setting of the lip but it. is believed thatthe bestsetting is obtained by the conjoint use of the two reciprocating lip setting tools, one acting at one point on the lip from the side of the sole and the other acting at another point on the lip from above the sole.

the following claims;

What is claimed as new, is

1. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of a lip turning tool, a lip setting tool acting on the'lip at its base where it joins the feather, an additional lip setting tool acting on the body of the lip, and means to operate said setting tools, substantially as described.

2. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of a lip turning tool for turning up the lip of an insole, and two reciprocating lip setting tools arranged to engage different parts of the lip turned. up by the lipturning tool and acting from different directions, substantially as described.

3. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of a lip turning tool for turning up the lip of an insole, two reciprocating lip setting tools acting on different parts of the lip turned up by the lip turning tool from different directions, and means to clamp the sole against the work support during the action of said tools, substantially as described.

4:. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of a lip turning tool, lip setting tools one acting onone part of the lip arranged to move in a direction inclined to the surface of the work support and the other acting on another part of the lip and arranged to move in a direction substantially perpendicular to the work support, and means to operate said setting tools, substantially as described.

5. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of a reciprocating tool arranged and operating to strike and act on the lip at the base thereof within the angle formed by the lip and feather, and a lip engaging hammer arranged and operating to lay the body of the lip over the face of the insole, substantially as described.

6. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of a lip setting tool acting on the lip from the side of the sole, a second lip setting tool acting on said lip from above the sole, and connected mechanism for operating said tools to impart a series of rapid blows to the lip, substantially as described.

7. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of a lip setting tool acting at one point on the lip from the side of the sole, a second lip setting tool acting at another point on said lip from above the sole, and means to actuate said tools to deliver blows upon the lip simultaneously, substantially as described.

8. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of a reciprocating lip setting tool acting on the lip in a plane substantially perpendicular to the work support, a reciprocating lip setting tool acting on the lip in a plane inclined to the surface of the work support and a presser foot arthe work support during the operation of said tools, and means for yieldingly supporting said first lip setting tool and presser foot, substantially as described.

v 10. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of lip turning means, sole feeding means, a clamping presser foot, a reciprocating support therefor operating to cause the presser foot to engage the sole face between the feeding movements of the sole feeding means, and a lip setting hammer for engaging the body of the lip, mounted on the presser foot sup port, substantially as described.

11. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of a tool to turn the lip substantially perpendicular to the feather, a setting tool to compact the fiber at the base of the upturned lip, a setting tool to lay the body of the upturned lip substantially parallel to the feather, and means to operate said setting tools, substantially as described.

12. In a lip turning machine, the combination with a work support, of lip turning, slitting and setting tools acting in the angle formed by the lip and feather of the sole, and a hammer acting on the lip from a point opposite the between substance, substantially as described. I

JOHN F. GARTLAND.

Witnesses:

ROBERT MCLAUGHLIN, WALTER I. GILLETTE.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G. 

